Azelaic Acid is a Tyrosinase inhibitor - which slows down the ...
Skin Care Ingredients Quotes
1. Azelaic Acid is a Tyrosinase inhibitor - which slows down the rate of melanin production.
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2. Chemical exfoliators are BHA, AHA and PHA.
They unglue the dead skin cells from your skin.
3. AHA is Alpha Hydroxy Acids. They come from Milk, Sugar and Fruits. AHA's work on the surface of the skin so they are good for dry and sensitive skin.
4. PHA is Poly Hydroxy acid which is relatively new for skin care. They don't penetrate as deep into the skin as AHAs and BHAs and work on the skin surface without disturbing the delicate layers that lie beneath. Good for people with eczema, rosacea and very sensitive skin.
5. Peeling gel is an exfoliator that has a AHA or BHA in it that you apply on your skin and then gently scrub it out. It has cellulous particles that attach itself to the dry skin and you see them come off in rolls of dead skin.
6. What is a Toner?
Toners is also called toning agents, astringent, beauty water. They penetrate very quickly into your skin giving instant hydration, removing dead skin cells, picking up the dirt your cleanser may have missed, picking up cleanser that water may have missed. They also restores your pH balance if you cleanser was not pH balanced. It gives you a plumper brighter looking skin.
7. Chemical Exfoliators are products which contain a AHA/BHA/PHA, a peeling mask or gel.
Physical Exfoliators is using something like a wash cloth, or a scrub, or using a mechanical spinning brush.
8. Scientifically backed benefits of Hyaluronic acid: well known for its skin benefits, especially alleviating dry skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and speeding up wound healing.
9. Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a clear, gooey substance that is naturally produced by your body. The largest amounts of it are found in your skin, connective tissue and eyes. Its main function is to retain water to keep your tissues well lubricated and moist.
Many people take it as a supplement, but it’s also used in topical serums, eye drops and injections.
10. Doses of 120–240 mg hyaluronic acid per day for at least one month have been shown to significantly increase skin moisture and reduce dry skin in adults.
When applied to the surface of the skin, hyaluronic acid serums can reduce wrinkles, redness and dermatitis
11. Hyaloronic acid is basically meant to hydrate your skin. They only work well if you live in a moist environment - if the air around you has a lot of moisture in it. What HA does is it holds the moisture from the environment in your skin - it can hold 2x the weight of its own moisture. If you live in a hot and dry climate, it's not really going to do much for you.
12. Retinoids help get rid of red spots, fine lines , wrinkles, uneven skin tone. Good for a night skin care routine.
Retinoids comes in different ranges: 0.2%, 1%
13. You can physically plump up your skin by using hyaluronic acid. Our own skin cells actually produce hyaluronic acid naturally with a goal to retain our moisture levels. As we get older, this production stops - making our skin look saggy and less plump. It is also good for all skin types.
14. For an instant moisture boost, use hyaluronic acid in the serum stage of your routine. As hyaluronic acid holds a thousand times its own weight in moisture - to give yourself an extra boos of plumpness, spritz some moisture over it (mineral water or essence).
Now the hyaluronic acid is going to hold onto that and retain that extra moisture.
15. Niacinamide gives your pores a tighter look and increases elasticity, giving an appearance of tighter looking pores.
16. Essence is used for plumper firmer looking skin. Essence usually have niacinamide, galactomyces and general hydrating ingredients.
17. On the days when you are not exfoliating, you can use a Retinol. You can use AHA/BHA/PHA and Retinol in the same routine if your skin likes it.
18. Glycolic Acid is one of the most powerful chemical exfoliants that dissolves the dead skin cells off of the face. They are very effective but higher concentration of Glycolic Acids in a product may be irritating for some skin types.
19. When a product has high or low pH than your natural pH (5.5), you're prone to skin irritation.
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20. Lactic Acid:
Somewhat similar to Glycolic acid in the sense that it dissolves dead skin cells off the face but it's the most gentle of the exfoliants making it ideal for really sensitive skin.
21. Niacinamide helps in reducing oiliness and sebum production in the skin. So it is good for Oily skin.
It is also a brightening agent.
22. Retinol has the most research backing it up with its benefits. Retinol is great for repairing deep damage within the skin if you have acne scars, fine lines, aging, dark spots, post inflammation hyperpigmentation, scarring or other problems. Retinol will help resolve those issues.
How much Retinol to use?
Retinol can be sensitizing to the skin and can make your skin very sesitive to the sun. That is why it is best to use it at night.
Slowly introduce Retinol to your routine: Once every 2 weeks, and then once a week up to a maximum of 3 times a week.
How to apply Retinol?
Your skin should be dry when you apply Retinol. If it is wet, retinol will penetrate deeper into the skin and cause irritation and flakiness.
25. AHAs and BHAs can be used every single day, but it is recommended to use it 3-4 times a week because you want to give your skin a break from that intense exfoliation.
26. Vitamic C is Ascorbic Acid which is the most researched. All other Vitamin C ingredients are technically not Vitamic C.
How Vitamin C helps skin
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is the most controversial skin care active ingredient.
It is known for its anti-oxidant benefits - protecting the skin during the day, brightening dark spots, preventing and decreasing aging of the skin.
Sensitive to light, turns dark brown. Make sure it is dark brown when you are using it, as it might not be that effective or will be sensitizing to the skin.
NIACINAMIDE + BHA
Is a good combination to have in the routine because they both reduce oiliness and excess sebum, and also exfoliate the skin.
May sometimes cause some sensitivity.
Perfect combination is to use Niacinamide in the morning, BHA at night.
NIACINAMIDE + RETINOL
A lot of people say this combination of active ingredients cannot be mixed.
They are recommended to be mixed together because Niacinamide reduce redness and irritation in the skin which is a common side effect of using a powerful ingredient like Retinol.
NIACINAMIDE + AHAs
AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid..)
They work great together. You don't have to worry about any sensitivity or irritation.
Niacinamide is not just found in Serums, but is also active ingredients in many moisturizers.
31. Mixing AHAs + BHAs:
This is a great combination as it exfoliates your skin pretty well together. Together, they give you an ultimate glow overnight.
Mixing Retinol + AHAs or BHAs
Technically, you can mix them together. Retinol helps your body to produce more skin cells, while exfoliation helps to shed excess skin cells.
Using both the same time can be effective, but you are risking over exfoliating your face.
You can use it if you have been using Retinol or Exfoliants for a long time and have not experienced sensitivity.
The best way is to use Retinol one night, and exfoliate the other night. So one day you produce more skin cells, and the other day you shed the excess skin cells. Perfect!
33. BENZOYL PEROXIDE
A common alternative ingredient to salicylic acid (BHA) which is good for getting rid of acne and acne scars. It is usually found in cleansers.
34. If you are applying 100% Ascorbic Acid as Vitamin C, then avoid using any other acid in the same routine.
It is a combination of multiple ingredients in a water-based serum which targets multiple signs of skin ageing and improves overall skin health. It helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, boost hydration, fade pigmentation, brighten dull skin, and firm and smooth skin texture.
A multi-peptide serum with syn-ake, matrixyl synthe-6, matrixyl 3000, argirelox, hyaluronic acid, amino acids and bio-derivatives to target multiple signs of aging.
It's a Buffet for your Skin Care.
36. Do not Combine Buffets with Retinol, Vitamin C (direct) and Peptides.
37. Nicinamide is a water soluble vitamin which works with what is already on your skin to help strengthen your skin barrier and water retention, improving the appearance of everything from fine lines to dark spots to redness and most interestingly, it reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.
It also helps boost ceramide production. In general, it helps your skin function well. It helps prevent acne, and also helps remove acne scars.
38. Niacinamide Myth: You can't mix it with Vitamin C.
People say they cancel each other out based on an old research paper from the 1960s, where they used unstable versions of pure vitamin C in very high temperature.
How to use Niacinamide?
You can find Vit B3 in every stage of your skin care routine. You can use it in combination with AHA/BHA, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinols, Vit C - it mixes well with everything.
It works best on leave on products like essences, serums or night creams.
Use it twice a day, in the morning you may use a product which contains some niacinamide, and at night you may use it in a concentrated form, like a serum.
40. Vitamin C is an anti-oxidant. It mops up the free radicals from your skin. Free radicals lead to hyperpigmentation.
Vit C also has Brightening effects which tend to start to reverse pigmentation.
41. Azelaic Acid is a Tyrosinase inhibitor - which slows down the rate of melanin production.
42. Fragrance smells good and it feels like you are treating your skin. What you are actually doing is creating a bushfire on your skin - by igniting a chain reaction that you can't see right away. Over the course of years, you develop alergic reactions to your favorite product and you may also develop allergies to the ingredients in the product that you were never allergic to before. This is the problem created by the Loreals and big skin care brands of the world.
43. The Ordinary Layering for Hyperpigmentation
1. Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA (derivative of Hydroquinone)
2. Niacinamide 10%
3. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
4. Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion or Retinol (max 2%)
5. Azelaic Acid
6. Moisturizer (fragrance free and free from actives)
44. Products are formulated with up to 2% Salicylic Acid. It is best to be used as a Spot Treatment and to be applied only where you see acne and pimples. Spot treatment speeds up the healing process of the acne/pimple.
45. Dark Circles are when you see physical pigmentation on your under-eye area.
Under-eye puffiness or Eye bags is different. It is the physical indentation of the skin under-eye area which may be confused with dark circles if there is a direct light from above. Over sleeping is one of the causes of Eye Bags.
The best treatment is having enough sleep. Then, here are some more.
1. Brightening Agents like Niacinamide
3. Vitamin C
Do not forget to apply Sunscreen.
46. What is Alpha Arbutin?
Arbutin is a naturally occurring substance found in plants (berries, wheat and pears) and is considered the safer alternative to synthetic hydroquinone which is banned in the EU.
There are 2 types of Arbutin: Alpha and Beta
Alpha Arbutin is more stable than Beta Arbutin.
What does Alpha Arbutin Do?
- lighten dark spots
- improves the look of hyperpigmentation
- improves uneven skin tone
- brightens overall complexion of the skin
How to use alpha arbutin
1. Take 2-3 drop in the palm of your hand
2. Rub both hands very gently
3. Press it onto your skin
It should be applied on clean dry skin, with other water-based serums and before applying your moisturizer.
You can use alpha Arbutin in the morning as well as in the evening.
The Ordinary Routine for Pigmentation
Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc !%, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA, Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%